While the look of brocade has not changed much through time, how it is created most certainly has. But in the French-born Joseph-Marie Jacquard devised a way to weave elaborate patterns using punch cards, not unlike the cards used to program early computers.
Each card represented one line of a pattern and its holes allowed threads to pass through into the pattern. This single invention revolutionized weaving, allowing weavers to create brocades and other jacquards faster, more cheaply—and significantly, much more easily.
The Jacquard loom effectively rendered the old style loom obsolete. In the dobby loom emerged, capable of creating a simplified version of a jacquard weave even faster and more cheaply.
The dobby loom took the place of the Jacquard loom for these simpler patterns, but the Jacquard loom persisted because it could produce far more complex patterns. Check your sock drawer: any socks woven with elaborate patterns are jacquards, for example argyle or herringbone pattern socks.
But the prettier favorites you stacked on top of it—Fair Isle knits and sweaters with distinctive Southwestern-style patterns, for example—were probably woven on a jacquard loom, too. Jacquards can be ordinary or refined, but either variation makes an excellent choice for the holidays and beyond.
Styling is straightforward: if the jacquard you choose is bold, then go with neutrals or basics in the rest of your outfit. If you skip the neutrals, then choose a color in the same family as the jacquard to pair with it. What does Jacquard feel like?
What is jacquard fabric used for? Where does damask come from? What does damask fabric look like? What kind of material is Jacquard? How do you wash jacquard fabric? Does jacquard shrink? What is jacquard silk? What color is Damask? What does double damask mean? What does chenille feel like?
What does damask mean in sheets? How is damask linen made? What does brocade fabric look like? Where is Damask? How do you care for damask fabric? What is the difference between Egyptian cotton and sateen?
Similar Asks. Elizabeth L. Jackson says:. April 14, at pm. Laurie A says:. January 1, at am. Dean davis says:. January 17, at pm. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. A discontinuous brocade is one where additional yarns are only woven into the patterned areas, resulting in a smoother back.
Front and reverse of a silk brocade variant. Brocading : brocade or other jacquard weaves with the inclusion of gold or silver coloured threads. It is also called Imperial Brocade. A variant of brocade with cut threads on both sides of the fabric, forming voided designs.
Brocade velvet: a patterned velvet with a raised pile and a woven ground not to be confused with a burnout velvet, where the patterning is achieved by burning out the pile with acid, rather than weaving in the pattern from the start. Brocatelle : Similar to brocade, but the patterned areas are more distinct and raised, and the fabric is heavier. An ottoman in the process of being re-covered in brocatelle.
Damask: Patterned fabrics with a ground of one weave usually plain, twill or sateen and designs in other weaves particularly satin and twill variants , so that the patterned areas have sheen and reflect light, Damasks are always reversible, with the pattern weaves becoming the ground weaves on the reverse so on a fabric with a plain ground and satin pattern front, the ground would be satin and the pattern plain on the reverse. There are tone-on-tone damasks, with different weaves within the damask creating elaborate floral or geometric patterns, and multicoloured damasks, where the background colours and the pattern colours reverse from front to back.
My Polly Oliver jacket is made from a red tone-on-tone jacquard damask. Tea gown with 18th century inspired back pleats, ca.
Front and reverse of a modern tapestry type fabric. If you are looking at a modern jacquard weave fabric and trying to determine what it is most likely to be called, ask yourself:. Jacquard hose : socks and stockings with elaborate patterns, such as argyle, herringbone, and other socks with the patterns woven in.
Jacquard sweaters: machine made sweaters with elaborate patterns knitted in. Most ugly Christmas sweaters? Those are jacquard sweaters. Aztec sweaters — those are jacquard sweaters. Machine knit argyle sweaters are knit on a jacquard loom. Faux Fair Isle and Cowichan sweaters are knit on jacquard looms. Melbourne: Oxford University Press. Calasibetta, C. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Collier, Billie J. Understanding Textiles Sixth ed.
Shaeffer, Claire. Iola, Wisconsin: Krause Publications. Wilard, Dana. The Fabric Selector.
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