Basic spine selection is easy and good plastic vanes with some helical will steer broadheads well. Removing the fletching from an arrow will exaggerate your form and bow setup problems. If your release is bad or your rest is not aligned correctly, the arrow will not fly like a dart, it will fishtail to the target.
You should be able to see this as a flash of color as your arrow shows some of its side when it is flying sideways or have some pitch up or down. Fix this first. When your arrows seem to be like darts, tracking nicely, and when you stand behind your target and look at where they are pointing back towards where you shot from, they should be pointing to the spot where you were standing.
You do this with French tuning — the process of using a perfectly verticle line on the target and getting the rest adjusted so that the arrows are hitting that string at a few yards as well as at your longest shooting distances. The first thing you need to do is shoot a few Arrows with your field tips and then with your broadheads into a foam Target.
What you may see is the field tips hit the bullseye while the field tips are a little lower. What you want to do now is make a slight adjustment to the arrow rest upward. Move the rest the way you want the broadhead to strike the target. We are better shots than we are hunters.
Not that we are bad hunters. Sometimes just a small change in how the broadhead is oriented can be used to offset variations in arrow straightness and broadhead alignment. By tweaking the orientation of the broadheads it is possible to bring a paper plate size grouping at 60 yards down to a grouping the size of a softball. Because the Ferr-L-Tite heat melt glue is so handy, we did a big no-no and tried it in the carbon arrows. At first it did not work well at all.
Then with the glue melted, the insert was pushed into the end of the shaft. We ruined the ends of about nine arrows before we got the feel for what was too hot and what was not hot enough. Fortunately, we had left the arrows long enough that we could trim the ruined portion off. We found that you want to get the point just hot enough to melt the glue, if you get it too hot it warps the end of the arrow. So by watching how the glue melted we could gauge how hot the insert was and we installed the inserts in a dozen carbon arrows.
We were pretty proud of ourselves until we started shooting the arrows and the inserts started coming out. So we removed the inserts by heating up the point until the glue melted and trimmed ends off.
Then we used a 7 mm brass gun cleaning brush to rough up the inside of the shaft. After cleaning the points and the inside of the shaft with a q-tip soaked in alcohol or acetone , we glued the inserts back in with the heat melt glue. That worked pretty well but we were still losing an insert in the target every once and a while. So we removed the inserts again.
We melted some extra glue on the insert and scraped the extra melted glue to the inside of shaft. Now when we pushed the insert into the shaft there was some glue there that was re-melted by the hot insert and pushed ahead of the insert.
We take the broadhead out and replace it with a field point that we heat up just enough to cause the glue to melt, then we rotate the insert.
By Steve Johnson Spott-Hogg. Your email address will not be published. Good Shooting! Lastly, functionality should also be paid attention to. If a rest isn't functioning properly, like dropping away in time, this will have an effect on arrow flight. Nock tuning, to the extent it is valuable, should be the very last step in the process. If your cams are funcitoning properly, your arrows are spined correctly and your rest is positioned where it needs to be, and yet you still get one or more arrows with broadheads that just do not want to group with the rest of your broadhead tipped arrows, nock tuning can help.
If you are nock tuning, you should already have arrows with field points and broadheads that group together. This fine tuning process is really designed to tweak individual arrows that are not flying like the majority of your arrows with broadheads on them. Nock tuning is when you turn the nock 90 or degrees to position the arrow differently as it flies off of your string. Doing this will change how the arrow flexes as it leaves the string, and theoritically can improve how the arrow recovers and flies after leaving your bow string.
If you're confident that your bow is tuned, and your form and shot are not the issue, nock tuning can help get individual arrows to fly more consistently.
Yeah, gear is not the end all be all fix to your archery problems, I promise. The fact of the matter is we are nowhere near perfect and more times than not, it seems issues arise more on the side of the shooter, than on the gear. Let's be honest. If it were as easy as just putting the pin on the mark and pulling the trigger, we'd all be professional archers. That is certainly not the case though. What I'm getting at here is that you also need to evaluate yourself, your shooting, and your form.
Take the time to get some proper coaching by someone much more experienced than yourself. Heck, just your range buddy could help to an extent. We have a tendency to build bad habits without even knowing and having someone from the outside looking in can bring those to light. When you do screw on a broadhead, this will be magnified. More times than not, I try to blame myself first before blaming gear. Humility is a valuable tool when it comes to shooting arrows. As a kid, we never bothered with any of this stuff.
Our cheapy broadheads of old would just get screwed on and we'd hope beyond hope that we'd get a deer. We never shot those broadheads before season, like we should have.
Knowing what I know now and looking back on those times kinda makes me glad we never got a whole lot of opportunities. Had we, the results could have been pretty heartbreaking to say the least. These days, things are quite a bit different and it's quite foolish for one to not pay attention to things like bad broadhead flight. You're about to go and try to take an animal's life. That's a big deal and should be treated as such. There are many things out of our hands in bowhunting, but bad broadhead flight is not one of them.
Let's take control where we can. Make sure that those broadheads are going to hit what we're looking at. You'll be thankful you did once your tag is filled and you're in the thick of the pack out back to the vehicle. If you have any questions about tuning your bow, drop them in the comments below.
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